Crawl Space Drying >> Water Mitigation

Insulation is one of the most important parts of trying to keep your Water Mitigation. Here are some useful tips, always install rigid or insulation that comes in batts using one of three different methods either use exterior foam, interior foam, or interior batt to create complete insulation coverage. Be sure to insulate the band joist with batt insulation, and possibly the most importantly insulate the crawlspace access if it is located in the exterior wall.

  1. Install a one-piece termite shield between your band joist and the masonry Water Mitigation foundation wall that will cover the wall insulation and will also extend completely outside, or leave at least a 2- to 4-inch insulation gap at the top for later termite inspection. Install an air supply outlet in the crawlspace, depending on the leakiness of the floor to provide a good return air path. During the early steps of your home’s construction, meet with your mechanical subcontractors, the plumbing, electrical, and heating/cooling contractors to remind them of the importance of keeping this between the floor joists as clear as possible.
  2. Run your Water Mitigation plumbing drain lines, the electrical wiring, and the heating and air ductwork below the bottom of the insulation so that an endless layer of insulation could be installed. For added protection against freezing, supply plumbing could be installed within the insulation. The best method is to run your water supply plumbing together in a few joist cavities. The insulation could be split and run around your plumbing piping, seal any air leaks between the conditioned space of your home and the Water Mitigation. These high-priority air leaks will include the holes around your bathtub drains and other plumbing drain lines, plenums for air ductwork.
  3. Take the other penetrations like for your electrical wiring, plumbing, and ductwork including the duct boot connections at your floor. Select the correct insulation levels of batts with an attached vapor/moisture barrier that are usually used to insulate your framed floors. Get the insulation with the proper width for the correct joist spacing of the floor being insulated. Complete insulation coverage is imperative, do not leave any Water Mitigation insulation voids. The batts must be installed up against the subfloor to remove any gaps that may act as passageways for cold air to flow between the insulation and the subfloor.
The batts need to be cut to the full length of the floor joist being insulated and cut to fit around your wiring and plumbing. Insulate around the band joist area and between the air ducts and your sub floor as the space permits. Use the correct insulation hangers or wire staves that are spaced every 12-18 inches to hold up the floor insulation in place without squeezing the insulation more than 1 inch. The location of the Water Mitigation vapor barrier will depend on your home’s location. In most parts of the country, the vapor/moisture barrier should face upward. Although, in certain areas of the Gulf states and other regions with mild winters and hot summers, it.

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The  read more..

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Lead-based house paint was commonly used in homes up until the late 1970s, and was particularly usual before the 1950s. The most customary places to find lead-based house paint are places where high strength is needed, like doors, doorframes, windows, woodwork, and furniture. Lead-based house paint   read more..